A Backpacker’s Guide To Koh Phangan, Thailand
- Martha Pillin
- Jan 5
- 13 min read
I still remember the first time I stepped off the boat and onto this island – my backpack slung over my shoulder, not knowing exactly what to expect. I had heard the stories of the Full Moon Party, of course, and let me tell you, I wasn’t disappointed. I spent my days bouncing between secluded beaches and getting lost in the jungle. Koh Phangan is so much more than just the wild parties – it’s a place where you can totally lose yourself, but in the best way possible. If you’re planning a trip, I’ve got the lowdown on the places that made my experience unforgettable…
When to Go to Koh Phangan
High Season (December to March)
This is hands down the best time to visit if you’re looking for perfect weather – sunny, warm days and clear skies. The island is buzzing with energy, but it’s not as hectic as the rainy season. It’s also when most tourists flock here, so expect a lively atmosphere, with plenty of beach parties, events, and day trips. If you’re keen on experiencing Koh Phangan at its peak, this is your time. Just make sure to book accommodation ahead because it gets crowded!
Full Moon Party (Every Month)
If you’re planning to experience the infamous Full Moon Party (or avoid it, if that’s more your style), timing your trip around it is key. The party happens once a month, usually around the full moon, and draws thousands of travellers from all over the world. It’s a must-do for partygoers, but it can get wild. So, if you’re after a laid-back experience, try to visit right after or before the party, when things are a bit quieter.
Shoulder Season (April to June)
After the rush of the high season, things slow down a bit from April to June. The weather is still hot, with temperatures around 30°C (86°F), but the crowds thin out, meaning you can enjoy the island at a more relaxed pace. If you’re not into the massive party scene but still want good weather, this is the sweet spot.
Low Season (July to November)
If you’re cool with a little rain and fewer crowds, the low season might be your jam. It rains more during these months, especially in September and October, but it usually comes in short bursts, so it doesn’t ruin your plans. On the upside, everything’s quieter, accommodation prices drop, and you can score some great deals. The island transforms into a peaceful haven, perfect for catching up on reading, yoga, or exploring off-the-beaten-path spots. Just keep an eye on the weather forecast, as the occasional heavy storm can stir things up!
Best Weather
December to March – sunny, warm, and perfect for beach days.
Full Moon Party
Check the lunar calendar for the wildest beach party of the month.
Best for Peace and Quiet
April to June – fewer crowds, good weather.
Budget-Friendly
Low season (July to November) – fewer tourists, cheaper prices, but expect some rain.
How to Get to Koh Phangan, Thailand
1. From Bangkok to Koh Phangan
If you’re starting your journey in Bangkok, you’ve got a few options depending on how quickly you want to get there and your budget.
By Plane + Ferry (Quick & Comfortable)
This is by far the most common and easiest way to get to Koh Phangan if you’re starting from Bangkok.
The first step is catching a flight from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) to Koh Samui Airport (USM). The flight takes around 1 hour and 15 minutes.
From Koh Samui Airport, you can take a taxi or shuttle to one of the piers, like Bangrak or Nathon, and catch a ferry to Koh Phangan. The ferry ride takes around 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the departure point.
Total Travel Time: Expect around 3.5 to 4 hours total, including your flight and ferry transfer.
Book a flight with Skyscanner and a ferry with 12Go
By Bus + Ferry (Cheaper Option)
For those on a tighter budget or who want a more adventurous route, taking a bus and ferry combo is a budget-friendly option.
Head to the Southern Bus Terminal in Bangkok (Sai Tai Mai) and catch an overnight bus to Surat Thani, a city on the mainland (the trip usually takes around 10–12 hours).
Upon arriving in Surat Thani, you’ll be transferred to Donsak Pier.
From Donsak Pier, take a ferry to Koh Phangan. The ferry ride lasts about 2.5 to 3 hours.
Total Travel Time: This journey can take up to 14 hours, so it’s a great option if you’re looking to save some cash and don’t mind an overnight travel adventure.
Book a Bus and Ferry with 12Go
2. From Koh Samui to Koh Phangan
If you’re already on the nearby island of Koh Samui, getting to Koh Phangan is a breeze. The most common way to travel is by ferry, which departs regularly from various piers on Koh Samui, including Big Buddha Pier, Nathon Pier, and Bangrak Pier. Depending on the pier and the type of ferry, the journey takes between 30 to 60 minutes. Ferries run frequently throughout the day, so you won’t need to worry about missing one.
Book a Ferry with 12Go
3. From Koh Tao to Koh Phangan
Koh Tao, a smaller island further north, is another popular stop for travelers. Getting to Koh Phangan from Koh Tao is easy and quick. Ferries run multiple times a day between Koh Tao and Koh Phangan. You can catch a boat from Mae Haad Pier (in Koh Tao) to Thong Sala Pier (in Koh Phangan). The trip takes around 1.5 to 2 hours. Depending on the time of year, ferries operate at least 3-4 times a day.
Book a Ferry with 12Go
4. From Surat Thani to Koh Phangan (Mainland Option)
If you’re coming from Surat Thani (either by bus or train), you can follow these steps to get to Koh Phangan.
From Surat Thani’s bus station or train station, you’ll be transferred to Donsak Pier (the journey takes about 1.5 hours by taxi or shuttle).
From the pier, you’ll board a ferry that takes you directly to Koh Phangan. The ferry ride lasts around 2.5 to 3 hours.
Total Travel Time: Expect the whole trip to take around 5-6 hours, depending on the mode of transport from Surat Thani.
Book a Transfer and Ferry with 12Go
5. Private Boat or Speedboat
If you’re looking for a more luxurious or adventurous way to reach Koh Phangan, chartering a private boat or speedboat is an option. While more expensive, this allows for a more personalised experience, and you can take in the views while cruising between islands. You can arrange for a private boat to pick you up from any of the nearby islands (Koh Samui, Koh Tao, or even the mainland).
Total Travel Time: Travel time depends on the departure point, but it usually takes around 30 minutes to 1.5 hours to reach Koh Phangan.
Travel Tips
Book in Advance
Especially during the high season (November to March) or around Full Moon Party dates, ferries and flights can get busy, so it’s always a good idea to book your travel in advance.
Ferry Delays
The weather can sometimes cause ferry delays, especially during the rainy season, so plan accordingly if you have tight connections.
Transfer Packages
Many travel agencies and hostels offer transfer packages that include both the bus and ferry rides, which can make your journey smoother and more affordable.
Best Things to Do in Koh Phangan
1. Party at the Full Moon Party
Let’s get this one out of the way – if you’re in Koh Phangan when the full moon hits, it’s hard to miss the epic Full Moon Party. Held at Haad Rin Beach, it’s a neon-filled, all-night celebration that attracts travelers from all over the world. Think fire dancers, epic music, and dancing in the sand until sunrise. It’s one of those things you have to experience at least once, but if partying isn’t your thing, don’t worry – Koh Phangan has plenty of quieter spots to explore!
2. Chill at the Secluded Beaches
While Haad Rin is famous, it’s not the only beach on the island. Koh Phangan is filled with quieter, more hidden beaches where you can relax and enjoy the turquoise waters in peace. Some of my personal favourites are:
Haad Yuan: A peaceful, serene beach that’s perfect for watching the sunset and soaking up the calm vibes.
Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi: A beautiful crescent-shaped bay with crystal-clear water and soft white sand – perfect for a lazy day of sunbathing.
Haad Chao Phao: A quieter beach known for its laid-back atmosphere and stunning views, ideal for a more relaxed beach day.
3. Trek to the Phaeng Waterfall
If you’re up for a bit of a hike, the Phaeng Waterfall is a must-see. The waterfall is located in the heart of the island, surrounded by jungle, and the hike is a nice way to break a sweat while soaking in nature. It’s especially beautiful after a rainstorm when the falls are at their fullest. There are different trails of varying difficulty, so you can choose one that suits your fitness level.
4. Take a Yoga Class
Koh Phangan is known for its spiritual side, and yoga is a huge part of that. There are tons of yoga retreats and classes available throughout the island, especially in the quieter northern areas like Haad Yuan and Srithanu. Whether you’re a seasoned yogi or a total beginner, it’s a great place to tap into some inner peace and balance. I ended up doing a sunrise class once – it was the perfect way to start the day.
5. Explore Thong Sala Night Market
For a taste of local life and delicious street food, you’ve got to check out the Thong Sala Night Market. It’s a great spot to grab some cheap, tasty bites – think Pad Thai, mango sticky rice, fresh fruit shakes, and grilled seafood. The market is also a great place to pick up unique souvenirs and mingle with locals and fellow travelers.
6. Rent a Scooter and Explore the Island
The best way to see Koh Phangan is by scooter – it gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace. The roads are relatively easy to navigate, and there are so many hidden gems waiting to be discovered, from secret beaches to quirky cafes and stunning viewpoints. Plus, the island’s scenic routes make for some epic rides.
7. Visit the Secret Buddha Garden
Tucked away in the island’s lush interior, the Secret Buddha Garden is one of Koh Phangan’s hidden treasures. The garden is home to a series of statues and sculptures, many of which are inspired by Buddhist teachings. The peaceful, serene atmosphere is perfect for a quiet afternoon of exploration and reflection.
8. Go Snorkelling or Diving
Koh Phangan’s crystal-clear waters are ideal for underwater adventures. There are plenty of spots around the island where you can rent snorkeling gear and explore the coral reefs, especially around Haad Yao and Ao Thong Nai Pan. If you’re looking to go a step further, the island has several dive shops offering PADI certifications and guided dives to some of the best dive sites in the region.
9. Hike to Khao Ra (The Island’s Highest Peak)
If you’re into hiking and want panoramic views of the island, Khao Ra is a must-do. The hike takes about 1.5–2 hours each way and rewards you with the highest view on the island. The trail takes you through jungle paths, so be prepared for some muddy spots, but the 360-degree views at the top are totally worth it.
10. Attend a Thai Cooking Class
Koh Phangan is also a great place to learn how to make some authentic Thai dishes. I joined a cooking class in a small, family-run kitchen and had an amazing time. You’ll learn how to prepare traditional dishes like Pad Thai, green curry, and mango sticky rice. Plus, you get to eat your delicious creations afterward – win-win!
11. Sunset at the Amsterdam Bar
If you’re looking for a chilled spot to unwind and watch the sunset, the Amsterdam Bar in the northern part of the island is the place to be. This laid-back bar offers stunning panoramic views over the island and the ocean, making it one of the best sunset spots on the island. Plus, they serve great cocktails to enjoy while you watch the sky turn vibrant colors.
12. Explore Koh Ma
Just off the coast of Haad Yuan Beach, Koh Ma is a small, uninhabited island that you can
reach by walking along a sandbar at low tide. It’s perfect for a relaxed day of exploring, swimming, and enjoying the tranquility away from the crowds. The shallow waters around the island make it an excellent spot for snorkelling.
Where To Stay In Koh Phangan
1. Hideout Hostel – Haad Rin
2. Shiralea Backpackers Resort – Haad Yao
3. Echo Beach Hostel – Ban Tai
4. Phangan Arena Hostel – Thong Sala
5. Domingo Hostel - Baankai Road
6. Cookies Salad Resort - Salad Beach
7. Sunset Beach Club Hotel - Haad Rin
8. The Black Sheep Hostel - Haad Rin
Where To Eat On Koh Phangan
1. Thong Sala Night Market – A bustling market with a wide range of Thai street food, from Pad Thai to grilled seafood.
2. Karma Kafe – A healthy, vegetarian-friendly café in Haad Yuan, known for wraps, smoothies, and plant-based bowls.
3. Restaurant – A charming Italian restaurant in Haad Yuan known for its authentic pasta dishes, wood-fired pizza, and stunning beachfront views.
4. Sand and Tan – This is my favourite place for food and drinks on the island! It offers international cuisine, delicious cocktails and an awesome view of the beach – perfect for a relaxed meal or sundown drinks.
5. Lost Paradise – A beachfront restaurant in Haad Yuan known for its laid-back vibe, delicious Thai food, and stunning views, making it a perfect spot to relax with a meal or enjoy the sunset.
6. Fisherman’s Restaurant & Bar – A seafood restaurant with fresh fish, crab, and prawns, and stunning ocean views.
7. Crumbs Coffee – A cozy café in Haad Yao known for its excellent coffee, homemade cakes, and casual atmosphere – a great place to start your day or grab a light bite.
8. Wasabi – A Japanese restaurant in offering fresh sushi, sashimi, and traditional Japanese dishes in a relaxed setting.
9. Ando Loco – A casual, vibrant restaurant in Thong Sala serving a fusion of Mexican and Thai flavours, with delicious tacos, burritos, and quesadillas.
10. Rock Garden House – A hidden gem in Haad Yao offering a mix of Thai and international dishes, perfect for a relaxing meal with great ocean views.
11. The Wave Sunset Restaurant – A beachfront spot in Haad Yao with amazing sunset views, serving a variety of Thai and Western dishes, including fresh seafood and grilled meats.
The Best Bars On Koh Phangan
1. The Secret Beach Bar – Hidden away on the picturesque Secret Beach, this laid-back bar serves refreshing cocktails and offers stunning sunset views, perfect for a chilled evening by the water.
2. Drop In Bar – Situated on Haad Yuan Beach, Drop In Bar is known for its relaxed vibe, good music, and a mix of locals and travellers. It’s a great place to unwind and meet new people.
3. The Full Moon Bar – Famous for its location near the Full Moon Party site in Haad Rin, this bar is a must-visit during the party and often hosts pre-parties with DJs and drink specials.
4. Emma’s Bar – A charming, cozy bar in Haad Rin, Emma’s Bar offers great cocktails, chilled vibes, and a welcoming atmosphere, making it perfect for a laid-back evening or meeting other travellers.
5. One Love Bar – Situated in Haad Yuan, One Love Bar offers an intimate and peaceful atmosphere, with relaxed tunes, friendly staff, and delicious cocktails. It’s a perfect place to unwind, especially after a day at the beach.
6. Eden Garden – Nestled in the hills above Haad Yuan, Eden Garden is a chilled-out bar with a stunning view, offering fresh juices, cocktails, and a serene vibe. It’s a great spot to enjoy nature and relax in a tranquil environment.
7. Sand and Tan – Located in Haad Rin, Sand and Tan offers great cocktails, live music, and a relaxed atmosphere with a view of the beach, perfect for unwinding after a busy day.
8. The Ugly Duckling – A quirky bar known for its cozy, friendly atmosphere and unique cocktails. It’s perfect for those who want a low-key hangout with a personal touch.
9. Amsterdam Bar – Located in the hills of Haad Yao, Amsterdam Bar offers amazing panoramic views of the island, great cocktails, and a laid-back vibe that’s perfect for watching the sunset.
10. Mae Haad Treehouse Bar – A chilled-out bar situated in the lush surroundings of Mae Haad, this treehouse bar offers refreshing drinks and a relaxed atmosphere, with an unforgettable view over the bay and nearby Koh Ma.
Safety Advice For Backpacking Koh Phangan
1. Road Safety
Scooters are the most popular way to get around the island, but they can be dangerous, especially on narrow or poorly maintained roads. Always wear a helmet (it’s the law), drive cautiously, and be aware of the local driving conditions. Before renting a scooter, thoroughly inspect it for any damage. Take photos of the bike so you’re not held responsible for any pre-existing issues. Ensure it has insurance coverage in case of an accident.
2. Full Moon Party and Nightlife
The Full Moon Party and other island events can get wild. While the atmosphere is fun, it’s important to drink responsibly. Stick with friends, and never leave your drink unattended. Avoid accepting drinks from strangers. When going out at night, especially to remote beaches or for events, always go with a group and let someone know your plans. Many areas are isolated, and it’s best to have backup.
3. Mosquito Protection
Mosquitoes are common, especially in jungle areas. Use insect repellent and consider wearing long sleeves in the evening to avoid bites that could lead to illnesses like dengue.
4. Beach Safety
While Koh Phangan’s beaches are beautiful, the current conditions can vary. Some beaches have strong currents, especially during monsoon season (May to October). Always swim in designated areas and be aware of posted warnings about currents.
5. Personal Safety
Koh Phangan is relatively safe, but like in any tourist area, petty theft can occur. Always lock up your valuables, and consider using a money belt or hidden pouch for passports, credit cards, and cash. Most hostels and hotels offer safes for your valuables. If your accommodation doesn’t provide one, consider carrying a portable safe or a padlock for your bag.
Koh Phangan is a friendly place, but as with any location, be cautious when meeting new people. Always trust your instincts if something doesn’t feel right.
6. Emergency Numbers
In case of an emergency, dial 191 for police, 1669 for medical emergencies, or 199 for fire services.
The island has a few hospitals and clinics, including the Koh Phangan Hospital in Thong Sala, which can handle minor injuries and medical needs. For more serious issues, a transfer to Surat Thani may be required.
7. Natural Disasters
The monsoon season typically runs from May to October. During this time, heavy rains, flooding, and strong winds can occur. It’s best to stay updated on weather conditions, especially if you plan on hiking or visiting remote areas.
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