The Kinabatangan River - Everything You Need To Know
- Martha Pillin
- Jan 22
- 10 min read
Updated: Jan 24
The Kinabatangan River is one of Borneo’s most iconic destinations. It’s a wildlife lover’s dream, home to lush jungles, winding waterways, and some of the planet’s most incredible creatures. Whether you’re a seasoned backpacker or just starting your adventure, this guide will help you navigate everything you need to know for an unforgettable trip.
Travelling Malaysia? Read: The Ultimate Backpacking Guide to Malaysia
Chapters
Why Visit the Kinabatangan River?
When to Go to the Kinabatangan River
How to get to the Kinabatangan River
What to Expect from The Kinabatangan River
Where to Stay on the Kinabatangan River
My Experience at Mr Osman’s Homestay
Recommended Tour Operators for the Kinabatangan River
How Long to Spend at the Kinabatangan River
What to Bring/Pack for the Kinabatangan River
Why Visit the Kinabatangan River?
If you’re looking for a chance to see wild orangutans swinging through the trees, proboscis monkeys with their iconic long noses, and pygmy elephants chilling by the riverbanks, this is it. The Kinabatangan River, Sabah’s longest river, cuts through some of the most biodiverse rainforests in the world. The wildlife here is so abundant, you won’t even need to try hard to spot it.
This is nature at its rawest. It’s peaceful, surreal, and incredibly humbling. Think boat rides at dawn, listening to the jungle wake up, and evening cruises with sunsets that will blow your mind.
The Borneo Big 5:
Orangutans: Often seen in the trees near the river.
Proboscis monkeys: Endemic to Borneo and oddly charming.
Pygmy elephants: If you’re lucky, you might spot a herd bathing.
Crocodiles: Keep your hands in the boat.
Hornbills: Their silhouettes against the sunset are unforgettable
When to Go to the Kinabatangan River
The best time to go it from March to October which is the dry season. Wildlife tends to congregate near the river during this period, making it easier to spot them.
Try to avoid going between November and February which is the rainy season. Heavy rains can make activities and boat rides trickier (and leeches, oh boy). If you’re up for an adventure, the rainy season can be cheaper and quieter, just be prepared for downpours! Pack waterproofs and prepare to get muddy!
How to get to the Kinabatangan River
Step 1: Fly to Sandakan
Sandakan is the main gateway to the Kinabatangan. You can fly here from Kota Kinabalu or Kuala Lumpur. Budget airlines like AirAsia make it easy and affordable.
Step 2: Travel to Sukau or Bilit Villages
From Sandakan, it’s about a 2-3 hour drive to the river’s main access points, Sukau or Bilit:
Shuttle services: If you’re staying at a lodge, then transport can often be arranged for you from at either Sandakan and Sepilok.
Bus: Take a Grab or taxi to to Sandakan’s long-distance bus terminal just outside of town. Head to the ticket counter offering tickets to Lahad Datu and ask for a ride to Sakau. The bus will drop you at the Sakau junction where you will then need to get a minibus, local taxi or ride organised by your lodge to Sakau. I would recommend having transport arranged by your accommodation as taxis can be unreliable.
Private car: A pricier but more convenient option that can be arranged through tour companies.
Mr Choy: Mr Choy is a friendly Malay taxi man known for his transport services to and from Sandakan and Sakau. My hostel contacted him for me to arrange a ride directly to Sakau for a small fee of 60MYR (about £10).
What to Expect from The Kinabatangan River
The Kinabatangan River is one of those rare places where wildlife seems to put on a show just for you. It’s a place that feels untouched and alive, where every boat ride or jungle walk brings new surprises.
Wildlife Spotting
This is the reason people flock to Kinabatangan. You’re heading into one of the most biodiverse areas in the world, and the sheer variety of animals you can encounter is mind-blowing.
Orangutans in the Wild: Seeing an orangutan in its natural habitat is a surreal experience. You might catch them building their nests high in the trees or foraging for food. While they can be elusive, your guides will have a sharp eye for spotting them.
Proboscis Monkeys: These quirky-looking monkeys are hard to miss. Their large noses (especially on the males) and big bellies make them easy to identify. They often gather in groups near the riverbanks, especially in the early mornings and evenings.
Bornean Pygmy Elephants: If you’re lucky, you’ll spot these gentle giants. They’re smaller than African or Indian elephants but just as majestic. Seeing a herd crossing the river or grazing along the banks is a highlight for many visitors.
Birdlife Galore: From hornbills with their dramatic beaks to brightly colored kingfishers darting over the water, the birdwatching here is incredible. Even if you’re not a bird enthusiast, it’s hard not to be amazed.
Reptiles and Amphibians: Keep an eye out for crocodiles (you’ll often see their eyes just above the water), monitor lizards, and even snakes lounging on low-hanging branches.
2. Boat Safaris
Boat safaris are the heart of the Kinabatangan experience. You’ll spend a lot of time on the water, floating through jungle landscapes while scanning for movement in the trees and along the riverbanks.
Dawn Cruises: These start at sunrise, and the jungle feels magical as it wakes up. Mist rises off the river, birds are calling, and this is often when wildlife is most active.
Afternoon/Sunset Cruises: The golden hour adds a warm glow to everything, and the chance of seeing proboscis monkeys, hornbills, and even elephants is high. Watching the sun set over the river is a moment you won’t forget.
Night Cruises: Some lodges offer night-time boat rides where you might see crocodiles, fireflies lighting up the trees, and nocturnal creatures like owls and civets.
Expect the boats to be simple, often with wooden benches and small motors. They’re quiet enough not to disturb the wildlife but not luxurious by any means. You’ll probably get splashed a bit, so don’t wear anything fancy.
3. Jungle Walks
While the boat safaris are the main event, jungle walks offer a closer look at the environment. Guided walks through the forest will introduce you to the smaller, often overlooked wonders of the jungle:
Insects: From giant ants to stick insects and colourful butterflies, the diversity is astounding.
Nocturnal Creatures: If you take a night walk, you might spot tarantulas, slow lorises, or even bioluminescent fungi glowing in the dark.
Jungle Sounds: The chorus of crickets, frogs, and birds can be deafening but enchanting.
Be prepared for mud, humidity, and an occasional encounter with leeches. It’s all part of the adventure!
4. A Real Jungle Experience
The Kinabatangan River is raw and untamed, and that’s what makes it special. Here’s a glimpse of what you’re signing up for:
Simple Accommodation: Most lodges are basic but cozy, with fans instead of air conditioning and shared dining areas where you’ll meet other backpackers. Expect a few critters (it’s the jungle, after all), but mosquito nets will keep them out of your bed.
Limited Amenities: Don’t expect Wi-Fi everywhere, hot showers, or gourmet meals. The food is usually hearty, local dishes like rice, vegetables, and chicken. Fresh fruits like pineapples and bananas are a treat.
Rain and Mud: Even during the dry season, the jungle is humid, and sudden showers are common. Paths can be muddy, and you’ll probably get wet at some point (embrace it - it’s part of the experience).
5. Community and Culture
The villages of Sukau and Bilit are home to local communities who live in harmony with the river. Many lodges are run by locals, and some tours offer opportunities to learn about their way of life. You might get a chance to try traditional fishing techniques, taste local dishes, or hear stories about the river’s importance to the people who call it home.
6. Surprises Around Every Bend
One of the best things about the Kinabatangan is how unpredictable it is. Every boat ride or walk is different, and you never know what you’ll see. One minute you could be watching a hornbill fly overhead, and the next, you might stumble upon a crocodile lounging on the bank.
Keep your eyes peeled, your camera ready!
Where to Stay on the Kinabatangan River
Accommodation around the Kinabatangan is all about jungle lodges. Options range from budget to mid-range.
Budget-Friendly:
Mr Osman’s Homestay - book through Whatsapp (see section below)
Mid-High Range:
My Experience at Mr Osman’s Homestay
When I visited the Kinabatangan River, I stayed at Mr. Osman’s Homestay, and honestly, it was one of the most memorable parts of the trip. If you’re after an authentic, community-focused experience, this is the place.
Mr. Osman and his family are incredibly welcoming, and staying here felt like being a guest in someone’s home rather than a tourist. The rooms are basic but clean and comfortable - exactly what you’d expect from a traditional homestay in the jungle. Plus, there’s something special about waking up to the sounds of the rainforest and the river right outside your window.
Highlights of Staying at Mr. Osman’s:
Home-Cooked Meals: The food was amazing! His family cooked delicious, simple local dishes with fresh ingredients. Meals were served family-style, so I got to share travel stories with other guests and the family.
Personalised Attention: Mr. Osman knows the Kinabatangan River like the back of his hand. He personally guided us on boat safaris and was incredible at spotting wildlife I would’ve missed on my own.
Affordable Rates: For budget-conscious backpackers, it’s a great option - affordable without sacrificing the quality of the experience.
Cultural Insight: Staying here gave me a glimpse into life along the river. Mr. Osman shared stories about the area, the challenges of conservation, and his love for the wildlife. He’s even been on the BBC showing David Attenborough around the area!
While it’s not luxury accommodation, the warm hospitality, homey vibe, and incredible access to the river make it unforgettable. I’d recommend staying here for at least two nights to really soak it all in. Just bring cash, as there’s no card payment, and expect patchy (or no) Wi-Fi - it’s a chance to disconnect and immerse yourself fully in the experience.
Fancy staying here? Contact Mr Osman on Whatsapp: +60 19-841 5259
Want to see what staying here looks like? Watch the Kinabatangan Travel Video!
Recommended Tour Operators for the Kinabatangan River
If you would rather book standalone tours instead of booking with your accommodation/lodge, here are some good operators to go with:
How Long to Spend at the Kinabatangan River
2-3 days is the sweet spot. You’ll have enough time for multiple boat safaris, a night walk, and some downtime to soak in the sounds of the jungle. If you’re a hardcore wildlife enthusiast, you could stretch it to 4 days.
What to Bring/Pack for the Kinabatangan River
Lightweight, breathable clothing - quick-dry is your friend.
Sun protection - suncream is essential to not burning whilst out on the river!
Rain jacket/poncho - rain can happen anytime.
Binoculars - essential for wildlife spotting.
Bug spray - mosquitoes are relentless.
Comfortable shoes - for jungle walks.
Power bank - lodges often have limited electricity.
Reusable water bottle - stay hydrated and eco-friendly.
Camera/phone with zoom lens - you’ll want good wildlife shots.
Head torch - handy for night walks and in lodges.
Snacks - if you’re picky, as options can be limited.
Leech socks - optional if you’re visiting during the wet season.
Safety Advice for Visiting the Kinabatangan River
While the Kinabatangan River offers a magical experience, it’s essential to be mindful of your safety, both in terms of the environment and the wildlife. Here’s some advice to help you stay safe and make the most of your adventure:
1. Wildlife Safety
Keep a Safe Distance: While it’s exciting to see animals up close, remember they are wild and unpredictable. Don’t attempt to touch, feed, or approach any animals, even if they seem harmless.
Be Alert on Jungle Walks: Stick to marked paths and always go with a guide. Wildlife like snakes, wild boars, and even elephants can sometimes be encountered on the trails.
Crocodile Awareness: Crocodiles are common along the riverbanks, so avoid standing or sitting too close to the water’s edge. Never dangle your hands or feet over the side of the boat during safaris.
2. Environmental Safety
Flash Floods: During the rainy season, flash floods can occur unexpectedly. If you’re staying near the river, check with your host or guide about flood safety protocols.
Leeches and Insects: Leeches are common on jungle walks, especially after rain. Wear leech socks or long pants tucked into your socks to minimize contact. Mosquitoes can also be intense, so apply insect repellent regularly to avoid bites.
Sun Protection: The sun can be strong, even when it feels cooler on the river. Wear sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat to protect yourself from sunburn.
3. Health Precautions
Malaria and Dengue: Mosquito-borne illnesses are a risk, so take preventative measures. Consider anti-malaria medication (consult a doctor beforehand) and use a mosquito net at night if provided.
Vaccinations: Ensure your routine vaccinations (tetanus, typhoid, hepatitis A, etc.) are up to date before traveling to Borneo.
Stay Hydrated: The jungle’s heat and humidity can lead to dehydration. Drink plenty of water, but ensure it’s clean or filtered. Bring purification tablets if you’re unsure.
4. Travel and Lodging Safety
Stay With Reputable Lodges: Always book accommodations and tours with operators who prioritise safety and follow ethical wildlife practices. Check reviews or ask other travelers for recommendations.
Cash Only: There are no ATMs near the river, so bring enough cash for your entire stay. Avoid carrying large sums openly.
Limited Connectivity: Wi-Fi and phone signal are scarce in the area, so inform someone of your plans before you go in case of emergencies.
5. Boat Safety
Follow the Guide’s Instructions: Your guide is trained to navigate the river safely and spot potential risks. Always listen to their advice.
Wear a Life Jacket: Even if you’re a strong swimmer, always wear a life jacket during boat safaris. The river’s currents can be strong, and there are crocodiles in the water.
Weather Awareness: If the weather turns bad (heavy rain or lightning), boat safaris may be delayed or canceled for safety.
6. General Jungle Safety
Carry a Headlamp/Torch: Power outages are common, and you’ll need a light for navigating around your lodge after dark.
Watch Your Step: Trails can be slippery and uneven, especially after rain. Wear sturdy shoes with good grip.
Don’t Wander Off: The jungle can be disorienting, and it’s easy to get lost. Stick with your group or guide at all times.
7. Conservation Awareness
Avoid Littering: The Kinabatangan is a fragile ecosystem, so pack out whatever you bring in.
Dispose of waste responsibly, and avoid single-use plastics whenever possible.
Respect Wildlife: Minimise noise during safaris and avoid using flash photography. Both can disturb the animals and their natural behaviours.
Choose Ethical Tours: Some operators prioritise profits over conservation. Look for eco-conscious companies that contribute to protecting the area and its wildlife.
8. Emergency Preparedness
First Aid Kit: Carry basic first aid supplies, including band-aids, antiseptic, antihistamines (for bites or allergies), and rehydration salts.
Know the Emergency Numbers: Ask your guide or lodge for the nearest emergency contact information. Lodges are remote, so response times can vary.
Stay Calm: If you encounter wildlife too close for comfort or find yourself in a tricky situation, remain calm. Panic can make situations worse. Your guide will know how to handle most scenarios.
The Kinabatangan River Travel Video
Words can only capture so much of the beauty, excitement, and raw nature of the Kinabatangan River. That’s why I’ve put together this video to give you a real taste of what it’s like to explore this incredible corner of Borneo.
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